I personally find simply drawing lines to be a little easier and more accurate. There are two black pins on the Domino that you can put in the previously created mortise hole to make sure the distance between them is always the same. You can use the same principle there, or you can reference each mortise from the last one. If you want to join wider boards, for example for a table top, you need multiple mortises in a row. There is also a center mark on the bottom of the machine, so you can lign it up from both sides. You then align that line with the center mark on the Domino and you are guaranteed perfect alignment. To make sure your mortises line up perfectly, you simply put the two pieces in the right position and draw a line on both where you want the mortise to be. You should only change the mortise width while the machine is running Alignment and marking Usually you make a few mortises on the narrowest setting, to make sure the alignment is perfect, and then the rest on the slightly wider setting to allow for a little bit of play to make up for any inaccuracies. Lastly, the width of the mortise can be set to three sizes: Equal to the width of a tenon, slightly wide, and even wider. Changing the angle, note the clicking sound for the stops Mortise width It can be set continuously from 0 to 90 degrees, but also has some positive stops where it kind of ‘clicks’, so you can quickly set it on for example 45 degrees for creating a perfect miter joint. You can adjust the angle of the mortise with the fence. Setting the depth of cut Adjusting the angle But sometimes one piece is much thinner than the other, so you want some extra depth on one side, and less on the other. On two equally thick pieces, you probably want both mortises the same depth. It has several depth settings, from 12 to 28 mm. The depth of the mortise can be set on the back with a spring-loaded button. Selecting a preset height of the mortise Changing the height of the mortise Mortise depth On the side there is a slider with some preset thicknesses that help you find the center on standard plywood sizes really quickly. You want to position your tenon (if it’s just one) in the middle. The vertical location is relatively straightforward. But if you have really thick stock, you might want to use two tenons. Usually you want your tenon to be no thicker than a third of the thickness of the stock. The choice of the bit size depends on the size of your workpieces. Angle of the mortise (for connecting miters).Vertical location (distance of the hole from the top of the workpiece).There are five variables you can change on the Domino DF 500 to make the specific connection you want. Making a test cut with my Festool Domino 500 I haven’t used these special connectors myself yet. This is great if you want to create flat-pack (like Ikea) furniture. If you want to, you can make your own dominos on the router table as well, but personally I find it too much work.īesides regular wooden dominos that are glued in, Festool also offers a range of connectors that can be assembled and disassembled. One downside is that these dominos are not very cheap. ![]() Festool supplies dominos for each size, both for indoor (Beech), and outdoor use (Sipo Mahogany). The bit moves from side to side really quicklyīy changing to a different size bit you can make smaller or larger mortise holes. You just push the rotating bit into the wood and it automatically creates a perfectly clean mortise in under 2 seconds. But it also moves from left to right at an angle really quickly. It uses a special bit that rotates, similar to a regular drill. What makes the Domino unique is that these mortises can be made extremely quickly, and with perfect alignment. ![]() These mortises can then be fitted with floating tenons that resemble domino stones, hence the name Festool Domino. The Festool Domino does one thing: it creates mortises. The Domino 500 comes in a Systainer What does the Festool Domino do? Things I’ve made with my Festool Domino 500.Alternatives: Domino VS Biscuit Joiner VS Doweller.
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